Tuesday 20 October 2015

Historic Town of Penonomé

Over the last two posts I have been talking about my visit to the novitiate in Penonomé. The novitiate is on the outskirts of the town (as a matter of fact, the novices haven't been allowed to visit it yet!). It is really a very pretty town that has managed to preserve quite a bit of it's history - at least it's colonial history.

The name Penonomé comes from two "indian" words. I use the word "indian" in inverted commas because the people who spoke that language were not indian and had no contact with India. They came to be called indians because when the Spaniards, led by Christopher Columbus, first discovered America (although, as any Irish person knows, St. Brendan had already discovered it - he just didn't feel the need to tell everyone!!!), they believed that they had already travelled as far as India. That is why some of the Caribbean islands are referred to as the West Indies - it actually recalls an historic misinterpretation of events that came to be preserved in language as a way of referring to this part of the world.

Anyway, returning to Panamá: the indigenous peoples, of whom there were quite a number, spoke a number of different languages that have now disappeared and are no longer known. What has survived are many of the place names, of which Penonomé is one example. Nomé, it seems, was a well known "indian" and this is the place where he died - this is what is commemorated in the place name - it means "the place where Nomé died".

There are still some indigenous groups extant in Panamá. They live in specific areas (not reservations, but they are specially protected). These areas are known as Comarcas. These people, apparently, have a very different way of organising themselves compared to the rest of the population. Firstly, they have no real leaders. The Caciques (a sort of tribal leader) do not have any real authority over the various family groups although they are highly respected. They also have a role in resolving disputes and dispensing justice in minor matters. As a matter of fact, the Panamanian state recognises the Comarcas to the extent that they have, and apply, many of their own laws. I have had no experience of the Comarcas so I can't say a lot more about things there - if I do I will pass it on.

Returning to Penonomé - it has preserved a lot of its colonial architecture and is really a very pretty city to visit. These buildings are largely adobe buildings - not the computer programme but a mixture of stone and mud which hardens in the hot sun; they also have traditional tile roofs - the tiles are made from clay, too. You will be able to see in the photographs how modern house owners prefer the benefits of zinc rooves that are less prone to becoming damaged and are also more watertight - however, as you can see, they often cover the zinc with the old fashioned tiles to preserve "the look".

Take a look at the photographs and see what you think. Why not leave a comment?
Note the small windows due to strong sunlight

No front gardens - large back gardens for growing things

Every major town has to have its park

Buildings here are generally very well kept

This is a "false house" with a stage in front of it for public events

Museum with sign about campaig to keep it open

Lots of local sculptures

Note how the clay tiles are used to cover the zinc roof

Plants for decoration but also for shade

Entrance to a very beautiful hotel with enclosed patio

Modern Penonomé - not half so pretty

Patio of hotel

Traditional rooftops

A lot of care taken to preserve the old facade even when modern buildings replace the original ones


This spot marks the geographical centre of Penonomé

Original pulpit in the Cathedral

Body of the Cathedral



Cathedral

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